My first day in Delhi. Actually, I am staying in Noida (the IT hub of India apparently - techie. word deliberately chosen, I am sure).
The room in the Radisson is deceptively like any other room in a hotel across the world. However, the décor has been chosen to provide an Asian feel, with straight lines and dark wood for the fittings and marble flooring.
I only woke up at 2pm this afternoon, a consequence of a change in time-zone, several late nights before flying out and the journey to Delhi. I shouldn’t feel too bad, I received a call from Sam at 4:30pm to tell me that he had just awoken and that he was coming over to take me to see the ‘sights’ of Delhi. At least I had a good excuse for sleeping 12 hours!
I got up and got down to work... I needed to get it out of the way because Sam and Ashish were going to show me the sights of Delhi (or at least some). After finishing my presentation (which I have to deliver to the senior CSC India management tomorrow morning) I decided to actually pull back the net curtains and look at the view from my room… and find out what all the whistle-blowing is all about! I pulled the curtains from the 3 meter wide window and was presented with just some wasteland: dusty, dry grass stretching for a few hundred metres. Off to the left is a small temple and beyond that is a large, squat building escorted by an entourage of large satellite dishes… I am sure it’s so that I can get the BBC piped into my room.
Looking out to the right, I can see a road leading to some modern buildings… I have no idea what they are other than a sign of the phenomenal growth that India is experiencing in some areas. May be I will find out later.
So, I wondered how hot it was outside, and I placed my hand on the glass. It is so hot out there that the window is almost too hot to touch. If it was a plate you couldn't hold it for too long and you could definitely fry an onion bahji on it!
Delhi Sights Part 1
Sam and Ashish came to collect me. They had arranged a ‘car’ to take us to see some of the sights. Sam brought his camera because he is new to Delhi, but Ashish looked positively un-enthralled with the chore! They had hired an air-conditioned (had to be) Toyota transport which seems to be a universal form of transportation, even down to the off-white colour and clapped out A/C. It was driven by a guy with a blue turban and long beard, I am sure his name would have been Gupta Singh. There are a lot of Sikh jokes, apparently it’s akin to joking about the Welsh (sorry Lew)! First stop was a very tall tower. More interesting than it sounds.
Indian driving leaves a lot to be desired. In fact there is nothing desirable about Indian driving. First rule of Drive Club is there are no rules. Second rule of Drive Club is there are no rules. It’s manic in a relaxed kind of way; a typical Indian paradox. Lanes are mere guidelines that give you a sense of formality, but are often completely ignored. The car horn is almost exclusively replaces any special awareness on the driver’s behalf. “Oh look, another 400 people on bikes swerving across the road into the path of an oncoming bus which is about to squash me… I know, I will sound my horn, that’ll do the trick”. So the traffic noise is constantly interspersed with horn blowing! Talking of horns, there are the cows. Cows are a sacred beast and so people let them wander and get on with whatever cows do in the city (Sam says that it’s a sign of true democracy, but refused to admit that cows can’t vote). They may just sit down in the middle of the road and have a kip. There are people everywhere. They aren’t rushing, but they are constantly on the move. It’s almost fluid… people just flowing from here to there.
So, we reached the tower; just. A bus nearly hit us but luckily it missed – must have heard it coming what with all that horn blowing. We only missed the bus shunting us up the rear because we swerved into a group of meandering people. We were so close to hitting one of the women that I am amazed she wasn’t completely squashed – in fact, I actually was convinced we had hit her.
In India, it seems that people go out together as a family to wander in the evenings. Obviously it’s ridiculously hot during the day, and so the late afternoon on a Sunday is the perfect time to promenade.
We visited a tower… what can I say. A great feat of engineering which was apparently built using Lego. Not exactly Lego, but the guide told us (about 15 times) how the ‘interlocking system’ was an Indian invention and that it was better than the Persian approach of mortar to hold structures together. I won’t go into all the facts and figures, but suffice it to say, the tower’s accompanying temple had carvings of the Karma Sutra all over the place… taught me a thing or two I can tell you!
I spotted a small chipmunk like creature crawling up the walls. I asked Sam what it was. He looked at me as if I had become even more stupid and said, “That’s a squirrel”… could have fooled me. According to Sam, the squirrels in the UK grow bigger because of the climate… I reckon it’s because they keep an eye on their nuts.
Next stop was a temple; not particularly interesting in itself, but the first time in India I have been pointed at by kids as I wandered through the throng. I am assuming they were pointing out my ridiculous hair-cut or dress sense in the same way the lads at work do and that it had nothing to do with the fact they have never seen a real European Caucasian before! The temple staff was handing out food for free. That sounds great, and a good part of the throng was queuing up to receive this food. Let me tell you though, it didn’t look that appealing. They were spooning a green mushy substance (sort of like a chip-pea equivalent to mushy peas) into small containers that looked like a single segment from an egg-box which had been flattened. The people would eat this mush with their fingers, just scooping it out of the recycled cardboard bowl. It made me wonder which hand I should use for eating with my hands… being left-handed I feel a little bit anxious as to whether I am eating with the hand that is supposed to be responsible for the after-effects of eating!
Back into the car and off to the parliament area. A very grand area obviously built during colonial times, which is obviously a rip-off from Roman times, who blatantly nicked architectural inspiration from the Greeks… anyway, the government buildings are very well spaced and provide a wide esplanade (which is used for processions and the like). The esplanade stretches down to India gate. India gate is another Roman rip-off in the form of the victory arches spread out across Rome (very similar to l’Arc de Triomphe in Paris). The view created is exactly the same as if you were looking from the senate of Rome down towards the Coliseum… deliberate? I think so. However, there is one very important difference. The Roman arches were built to signify a victory in battle. The gate of India was built as a memorial to those who lost their lives in the 1st (and I think, the 2nd) World War. Each tile fascia on the arch is inscribed with several of the 10,000 names that the memorial commemorates. We got out of the car, took some mandatory snaps and avoided the thousands of people out for the evening. Literally, thousands of people wandering around with their families, because it was Sunday evening and it seems the sensible thing to do… that is, sensible, until you realise that you have 7 children, 2 adults and a cousin who all need to get home in a 3-wheeler powered by a lawnmower engine. Sardines have got nothing on Indians when it comes to packing into a tin! Have you ever seen a family of 5 on one motorbike… it’s quite an act of balance!
Number of power cuts: 3